She was the stuff of legend, a dreamwoman basu gaido-san from the 1960's. Her style was ultra-proper with funky beribboned hat, pin curls, form-fitting pinstripe suit and immaculate white gloves. She had a perfectly modulated voice and a good command of the local history and culture. To top it off, she sang local songs and hit tunes in a voice that induced us to either sing along or fall fast asleep. I enjoyed her dramatic recitation of the Heike Monogatari as we passed the area where the final battles of Dannoura were fought. She made jokes that no one laughed at and asked questions that were met with baffled silence. Still, for three days/two nights she served as our erstwhile and ever-smiling leader.
